Where the Hearth Is

How Barrel & Fork is breaking new ground in an old space

Lake Norman Currents | March 2020

By Aaron Garcia

There are certain challenges that come with opening a restaurant in a 114-year-old house. Floorboards break, shingles leak. On this particularly rainy day, Barrel & Fork owner Jason Tuton is troubleshooting why only some of the bar's new lights are dimming.

"There are probably 100-year-old wires up there," says Tuton.

Considering the setting, the punch list may never end, and that's perfectly fine. After all, Tuton and his team are looking to create something new and unique inside the century-old Queen Anne Cottage.

"I really wanted that neighborhood spot," says Tuton, who has owned car dealerships and restaurant franchises in the past.

A turn-of-the-century feel, bar none

That transition has largely been sparked by Barrel & Fork's new bar. During renovations, Tuton removed a wall and unearthed a stunning brick chimney, which now serves as the eye-catching centerpiece looming behind Head Bartender Jade Finn. Metal and wood shelving displays dozens of bottles that, when spotlighted by the (not-so-dim) lights above the brick resembles suspects standing in a police lineup. Such seemingly unfinished details complement the bar's golden wood bar top, soft lighting and elegantly appointed tables to create a prohibition-era ambiance that starts out lively and continues to loosen up as the hours go by.

That turn-of-the-century feel, says Tuton, convinced him to highlight bourbon as the bar's base spirit; you'll find a four-page menu of ryes from around the nation.

"It felt right for the house," says Tuton. "We could've been real heavy wine, but it's a 120-year old home ... It just feels like that era."

Portion control

The menu, put together by Tuton and Executive Chef Justin Morris, departs from the small-plate cuisine former inhabitant Forkl was known for, instead opting for larger portions which, in some cases, are eye-popping; the Bone on Veal Parmesan is hand-pounded to nearly plate-size before it's breaded, sautéed and smothered in hand-pulled mozzarella. The comfy bed of Capellini pasta it's sitting on finishes off what Tuton says has been the most popular non-seafood dish on the menu, which is broken down by appetizers, "Greens," "Whites," "Reds" and "Share" — a listing of available sides. While the other items are more moderately sized in comparison to the veal, they're still generous enough to fill most appetites. Another standout has been the Chicken and Waffle, which features fried chicken, fresh strawberries and a fried egg, all piled atop a "savory" waffle and drizzled with bourbon bacon syrup.

While he and Morris originally assumed there'd be an even split between meat and fish dishes, Tuton says he's been surprised by the demand for fresh seafood and began sourcing catches from North Carolina coast. The Scallops have quickly become a favorite, says Tuton, and are complemented by Morris' sweet potato orzo, asparagus and bourbon glaze. There's also Blackened Salmon, Grilled Sweet Chili Shrimp and a catch of the day special.

On Sundays, Barrel & Fork offers a brunch menu and Tuton said he plans to begin serving lunch starting April 1.

Now, nearly six months into service, Barrel & Fork has settled into its personality of offering modern American fare with a speakeasy vibe. Yes, there are lighting issues and other quirks you won't find at most restaurants.

And for Tuton, that's exactly the point.

"It had to be a neat space, first and foremost," he says. "Then I felt like we (needed to be able to) bring our own culture and feel and vibe to the place. You're not creating this in a mall."